Hot Springs National Park is the second smallest national park in the United States, but don’t let its size keep you away. If you want to go to a town that is both unique and charming, Hot Springs, Arkansas is for you. Hot Springs is in the Zig-Zag Mountains, a section of the Ouachita Mountains, and in the center of the national park is a city filled with bathhouses and spas, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, boutiques, and more. There is truly something for everyone. Bonus - it doesn’t cost a thing to visit the park!
A brief history: Hot Springs first became part of United States Territory in 1803 as part of the Louisiana Purchase. Shortly after, early settlers recognized the benefit of the thermal springs and their healing qualities. The national park was founded in 1921, but the land was set aside for future recreational use well before the idea of national parks existed, in 1832, and was deemed Hot Springs Recreation. Hot Springs National Park has come to be known as the “American Spa.” Hot Springs was also a hideout for gangsters and mobsters, such as Al Capone, back in the day. You can visit The Gangster Museum of America during your visit if you choose to if you’d like to learn more about that.
The draw to the park is the thermal hot springs, known for their medicinal and healing properties. 8 bathhouses were built on top of the hot springs and came to be known as Bathhouse Row. Today, 2 bathhouses are still operating as such, and 5 others have been converted for different purposes - one is a brewery, one a hotel, one an art gallery, one the Hot Springs Visitor Center, and one the official park store. The Maurice Bathhouse is currently vacant but will be available soon for commercial leasing. In the park, you’ll find 26 miles of hiking trails, a Grand Promenade to stroll, two thermal hot springs that you can touch (Display Spring and Hot Water Cascade), Hot Springs Mountain Tower, the opportunity to take a scenic drive, and so much more.
Where to Stay: Hillside Retreat at Kelly Hollow Farm
For Christmas last year, my now fiancé and I decided not to exchange material gifts but to spend the money on an experience. We chose a weekend getaway to Hot Springs National Park and booked the Hillside Retreat at Kelly Hollow Farm on AirBNB. This farm-stay is roughly 10 minutes from downtown Hot Springs, and if you’re arriving after dark, the roads to get there are pitch black and somewhat narrow. When we got there, we took the stairs to the door on the backside of the building and completed the self check-in. Our space was open with a bed, tv, sitting area, dining table, kitchenette, and a bathroom. There’s also a hot tub on the deck with a switch near it that turns on overhead string lights - couldn’t get any more dreamy than that!
The hosts subtly decorated for Christmas, which to me, made our weekend even more romantic since I love the Christmas season. If you’re around, you can watch the hosts milk their goats. You’ll also find pigs, dogs, chickens, and turkeys on the property. The male turkey Tom is BEAUTIFUL. He’s also friendly though a bit intimidating considering he likes to run towards people.
DAY ONE
We decided to take a Friday off of work and leave early in the morning. Hot Springs is about a 3 hour drive from Memphis, so it’s the perfect location for a weekend trip. I’d been reading about how wonderful brunch at Best Cafe & Bar is and knew I wanted to go, so that was our first stop.
Best Cafe & Bar
First up - drinks! We each ordered a cocktail. I got the “Sleigh Ride,” which was a delicious blend of Prosecco and apple cider with a cranberry syrup and graham cracker rim - so festive! Alex got the “It Don’t Mean a Thing,” which was their bloody mary.
While we were waiting for our food, we overheard a group of ladies talking about how they would move to Hot Springs, if only to eat at this place every day! I concur.
I ordered the Duck Confit Hash, and Alex had the Fried Chicken Benny. I loved my meal, but it is definitely for people who enjoy a mix of sweet & savory because of the purple sweet potato in the dish. Alex’s meal was SO GOOD. I took a bite and kept wanting more. The chicken was fried to perfection, the ratio of spicy buffalo sauce to chicken was ideal, and the in-house chive biscuit was delectable. I loved my meal, but his was probably the best brunch dish I have ever tried.
Best Cafe & Bar is located at 632 Ouachita Ave, Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Next, we headed to Central Ave. There is a free parking garage in Hot Springs that we utilized the entire weekend. Every city should have something like this! Exchange Street Parking Plaza is located at 128 Exchange St., Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Once we parked, we headed on over to the Fordyce Bathhouse, which has been transformed into a museum and the Visitor’s Center. We spent some time walking through a few of the different rooms and reading about the history of bathhouses.
Fordyce Bathhouse
Fordyce Bathhouse is open from 9 AM - 5 PM and is located at 369 Central Ave, Hot Springs, AR 71901. It is currently closed through February 2023 to install new exhibits, but the visitor’s center lobby remains open.
Display Spring
If you’re strolling along Bathhouse Row, one of the hot springs you can touch is located directly behind the Maurice Bathhouse, and it is worth the detour to go around the backside of the bathhouse. This hot spring is beautiful and in a very peaceful area. Fun fact: The springs in this park were formed from rainwater that fell over 4,000 years ago.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery
Our next stop was Superior Bathhouse Brewery. I don’t love beer, but I loved this place. First of all, this is both the only brewery in a U.S. national park and the only brewery in the world that uses thermal hot spring water as an ingredient in their beer. You can’t get more unique than that. We weren’t eating, so we just went to the bar towards the back. Alex & I wanted to try a few different ones, so we decided to split a flight - four 4 oz tasters of your choice. We split the Basic Peaches (a peach sour), Lolo’s (saison), Hot Girl Sour (pickle habanero sour), and Whittington Wheat (Hefeweizen). I don’t like beer, but I do love a good sour, so I only tried the Basic Peaches and the Hot Girl Sour. They were both so good, but I don’t think I could have drank more than 4 oz of the Hot Girl Sour because, whew! That one is spicyyyy. We played Hooks, ring toss with a shot ladder, while we were enjoying our flight. They had a few other games you could play, too.
You can also do a beer bath and sample all of the beer they have on tap for $40.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery is located at 329 Central Ave, Hot Springs National Park, AR 71901.
After we left the brewery, we headed to Quapaw Baths & Spa. We had a service scheduled at 3 PM and needed to be there at 2:30 to check-in. We called a week or so before our trip to book the Couple’s Mudslide Spa Treatment package, which consisted of a 20 minute private microsilk bath, a 25 minute clay body wrap/facial, a shower, and a 50 minute Swedish massage. Needless to say, we spent the majority of our first afternoon here. To be completely honest, I had no idea what to expect for a spa treatment of this nature. I’d read you would need a swimsuit and rubber shoes, and if you didn’t have them, they were available for purchase at the spa. That information ended up being for the Public Thermal Pools, which are first come, first serve and are $25 + taxes per person. The space for that at Quapaw is stunning - I wish I’d taken a picture.
Quapaw Bathhouse + Day Spa
After we checked in, we were brought downstairs, given robes and rubber shoes, and were shown to the locker room. We changed and locked up our belongings, including our phones because we decided to unplug and be totally present with each other. After that, we were given refreshing cucumber water and shown to a comfortable seating area to wait for our turn. There are going to be envelopes for you to leave tips at each section of your service. We didn’t have our wallets with us, so we tipped when we checked out and directed how much to give for each part of our service.
For the private bath, you can wear a swimsuit if you choose, but it’s totally up to you - clothes are optional. You’ll be shown to a room that has a giant jacuzzi tub that your bath attendant will show you how to use. The jets will stop after 20 minutes, you’ll drain the tub, dry off, put your robe back on, and wait about 10 minutes for a cool-down. We were given more water at this point, which you definitely want to drink. After our bath, it was time for the clay body wrap and facial. They chose which products to use based on the questionnaires we filled out when we checked in. You’ll get a paper at the end of the service that will tell you all of the products used if you’re interested. After the clay wrap/facial, your masseuses will leave the room so that you can shower - so necessary to get all of the mud off! I think we took a break after this where they gave us more water and snacks - pretzels and nutri-grain bars.
We LOVED the clay body wrap/facial/Swedish massage portion of our spa experience. Both of our masseuses were named Tonya, so if you end up with someone by that name, you’re in great hands! We left smelling good and feeling so relaxed. It is extremely important to remain hydrated before, during, and after your service.
Note: There is a 24-hour cancellation policy. If you want to make a reservation, you’ll have to call (501) 609-9822, as they don’t take online reservations at this time. You can find information on all of their different packages, as well as pricing, on their website. Quapaw is located at 413 Central Ave, Hot Springs National Park, AR 71901.
The other bathhouse still operating as such in Hot Springs is Buckstaff Bathhouse, the only one in Hot Springs that has never closed its doors. It’s been continuously operating since 1912! For baths and massages here, they only take walk-ins. If you want a manicure, pedicure, or facial, those are by appointment only. Buckstaff is closed on Sundays and is located at 509 Central Ave, Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Fat Bottomed Girl's Cupcake Shoppe
If you’ve watched Cupcake Wars on the Food Network, you may have seen Fat Bottomed Girl’s Cupcake Shoppe. We stopped in here so I could get two cupcakes to bring back to our AirBNB for a sweet treat later that evening. I got a vanilla creme brûlée and and a raspberry pistachio. Both were delightful, and I ended up finishing them for breakfast the next day. I’ve also heard the lemon lavender is the best. I tried to get that flavor, but they were out, so I will try again next time I visit!
FBG is open 7 days a week and is located at 502 Central Avenue, Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Next, we went to check into our AirBNB, unload the car, and change into warmer clothes. It was very cold the weekend we visited, and we were heading over to Garvan Woodland Gardens to see the holiday lights.
Garvan Woodland Gardens
A visit here is a must. There are 5 MILLION Christmas lights, and everywhere you turn, you’ll be reminded of the magic of Christmas. If you want to visit, you’ll need to purchase tickets online in advance for $20/adult; for ages 4-12, tickets were $5/person, and children 3 and under got in free. If you’re a member, you don’t need to purchase a ticket or make a reservation, but you will need to bring your membership ID. You’ll be able to enter any time between 4 & 9 PM, but they close at 9. Last year, the Holiday Lights returned to the gardens on November 19th and ran through December 31, 2022; closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. This is a very popular attraction, and the parking was a little crazy. They do have people guiding you, and there were light up reindeer in the trees that were different colors to help you remember where you parked, which I thought was so clever. It was very crowded at the entrance, but once you make your way further into the gardens, the crowd thins out, and it is very enjoyable.
We got there a little later than we wanted to, but we still had plenty of time to see everything. We spent about 2 hours walking around and grabbing a bite at the Chipmunk Cafe. We split a chili cheese dog, I got hot cocoa, and Alex got apple cider - all delicious. My favorite display was by far the train set right in front of the Cafe.
The gardens are located at 550 Arkridge Road, Hot Springs, AR 71913. Note -- The gardens are closed the entire month of January.
When you’re about to leave the gardens, look for the sign for the path to Anthony Chapel. You’ll absolutely want to stop here before you head back to your car. It is stunning at night, and there’s a gorgeous Christmas tree on the altar!
Anthony Chapel - Garvan Woodland Gardens
Maxine's Live Venue & Italian Eatery
When we left the gardens, we headed back downtown in search of food and a cocktail or two. We ended up at Maxine’s Live, and we were not disappointed. They were about to have live music, so we had to pay a $10 cover each, but we didn’t mind. When you walk in, there’s the bar area, and to the left through some curtains is the live music venue. We grabbed a booth on the bar side and started looking at the menu, which is newspaper style.
For drinks, I had the Lolita and the Spartacus, each one made with one of their house infused vodkas. I swear my cocktails were some of the best I’ve ever had. Alex tried both of them and agreed. For food, we split one of the Loaded Ones - Chicago-style deep dish pizza. We ordered the “On the Run” without olives. This pizza was SO good. We brought our leftovers back to the AirBNB and ate off of them for the rest of the weekend. I highly, highly recommend a visit here. The night we were there, the bar side was also playing great music. We didn’t check out the live music, but I think it was a country band that night.
Maxine’s is located at 700 Central Ave., Hot Springs, AR 71901.
DAY TWO
Kollective Coffee + Tea
I start every day with coffee! We woke up early and headed to the free parking garage. On our full day in Hot Springs, we headed to Kollective Coffee + Tea where I ordered a seasonal latte. Their S’mores latte was great and set me up to have an even better day.
Hot Water Cascade
After I had my coffee in hand, we went in search of the second hot spring you can touch, which is located on Arlington Lawn. Hot Water Cascade is at the base of the trail for the Grand Promenade, which was next on our list, so this plan worked out perfectly.
The Grand Promenade
The Grand Promenade is a brick-paved walking trail located behind Bathhouse Row and is about a half-mile long. It’s a lovely walk with benches and even tables where you can play chess. After we walked the Grand Promenade, we did some shopping, walked along Bathhouse Row, and filled up a growler at one of the spring water fountains around town.
Bathhouse Row
1. Quapaw Bathhouse — originally opened in 1922 and was named after the Quapaw Indians who once inhabited the area. This bathhouse is still operating as a bathhouse and now offers spa services utilizing the thermal water.
2. Buckstaff Bathhouse — originally opened in 1912. This bathhouse is the only one that’s been in continuous operation since it’s original opening, & it still offers traditional bathing experiences to visitors.
3. Superior Bathhouse — originally opened in 1916. Today, this one has been converted into a modern brewery utilizing the thermal water as a main ingredient in their beer.
4. Ozark Bathhouse — originally opened in 1922. Today, this one serves as the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center.
5. Fordyce Bathhouse — originally opened in 1915. Today, this one serves as a museum and the visitor’s center.
6. Lamar Bathhouse — originally opened in 1923. Today, this one has been converted into Bathhouse Row Emporium, or the official park store. You can purchase growlers here, which serve as great souvenirs. We got a small one for around $5 to fill up at at one of the spring water fountains. If you go to Hot Springs and don’t try the water, you didn’t experience all the springs have to offer! The water is surprisingly clean and crisp - so refreshing!
7. Hale Bathhouse — the oldest bathhouse with most of its structure having been completed in 1892! A major remodel occurred in 1914 and another in 1939. Today, the Hale has been converted into a luxury hotel.
8. Maurice Bathhouse — originally opened in 1912. This is the one that is currently vacant but will be available soon for commercial leasing.
The decline of bathing and bathhouses came after World War II with the development and progression of modern medicine. Bathhouses were known for providing relief to those with diseases such as arthritis.
Spring Water Fountains
There are 7 thermal spring fountains and 2 cold spring fountains around town. You are welcome to fill up as many jars and jugs as you’d like for personal use, and you’ll surely see people doing this around the city. However, if you intend to try and sell the water, you could be fined up to $5,000 and/or face up to 6 months of imprisonment. The cold springs are not sourced from the thermal hot springs, and the water instead comes from either West Mountain or North Mountain. The water from the cold springs is formally treated, unlike the water flowing through the thermal spring fountains.
Peak Trail
One of the main things I wanted to do on our trip was go on a hike. I also wanted to visit Hot Springs Mountain Tower. If you hike Peak trail, it will conveniently lead you to the base of the tower and the top of Hot Springs Mountain, so that was next on our list! The trail is 0.6 mi with 400 feet of elevation gain, and it also connects many other trails in the park. We ended up hiking to the base of the tower, visiting the tower and taking the elevator to the observation decks, and once we finished at the tower, hiking back to Central Ave. To do this from the tower, we took Short Cut Trail to Oertel Trail. We wanted to go celebrate instead of continuing to hike, and I am about to tell you why!
Hot Springs Mountain Tower
This attraction is a 216 foot free-standing steel truss observation tower, and on the top observation deck, you can see 140 miles into the distance in any direction on a clear day. Once you arrive at Hot Springs Mountain Tower, you’ll walk into a gift shop. From November to January, the store is open from 9 AM to 5 PM, but it’s important to note the tower closes 30 min before the shop. To take the elevator to the observation decks, you’ll go up to the counter and purchase tokens to put into turnstiles that will give you access. There are two stops, and the first one is inside with glass windows. On that deck, you’ll find information about the tower and Hot Springs. The top observation deck is outdoor with stunning views. On the day we visited, it was windy, cold, and quiet. For a few minutes, Alex and I were the only two people up there. We were walking around checking out all of the different viewpoints.
At one point, I turned around to Alex getting down on one knee and asking me to marry him. I’ll save the specifics of what he said to me because those words are ours. I will tell you that I screamed yes and cried so much. Full disclosure, I knew the proposal was on the horizon, but I didn’t know when, where, or how he was going to pop the question. I’d guessed he was going to propose in Lake Tahoe in January, so he totally caught me by surprise. Before we met, I used to say I wanted to be proposed to anywhere outside of the U.S., then I changed my tune to maybe in a national park, and I changed it again later to just on a trip. Experiences have always meant the world to me, and parks hold an extra special place in my heart. The fact that Alex proposed to me in a park when we were alone with that incredible of a view surrounding us meant everything to me - he truly knows me inside and out. Alex is the love of my life, and he’s my safe space, best friend, and travel partner. I could not imagine my life without him. The rest of our weekend was complete bliss. Once we headed back down, we bought a few souvenirs in the gift shop and headed to Bubba Brews for lunch.
The general admission fee for the tower is $12/person for ages 12 to 54. The pricing is discounted for senior citizens, military, police, firemen, first responders, golden/park pass holders, and youth, and you can find that information on their website. Additionally, it is free for children 4 and under, and there is a group rate for 15+ people. You can also drive to the tower’s parking lot if you’re not up for a hike, and parking is free. Hot Springs Mountain Tower is located at 401 Hot Springs Mountain Dr., Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Bubba Brew's Sports Pub & Grill
Bubba Brews is located on Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs. We chose to go out here because we heard from a few friends the vibe was fun, the food was good, and the view was even better. Alex and I just split buffalo wings and the Cuban Libre. We didn’t want to get too much food because we had a dinner reservation later in the evening. They also have some drinks that you can get in one of their collectible mason jars that you will get to bring home with you! I definitely went that route. I believe I ordered the “Summer Splash,” and it was delicious! This place is a great lunch option - delicious food with an incredible view! Can’t get any better than that. We did sit inside because of how cold it was that weekend, but they have big glass windows, so you can still see the lake.
Bubba Brews is located at 1252 Airport Road, Hot Springs, AR 71913. They are closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Hot Springs Mountain Scenic Drive + North Mountain Loop
After lunch, we did the Hot Springs Mountain Scenic Drive + North Mountain Loop. There’s a pull-off where you can stop for gorgeous views, pics, and a cute selfie.
Once we finished with that, we headed back to our AirBNB to call our families to tell them our news and get ready for a nice evening out.
The Rooftop Bar - The Waters Hotel
Our first stop of the evening was The Rooftop Bar at the Waters Hotel. I’d heard and read this was the place to be when the sun is setting, and boy was that information accurate. We only hung around for one drink because of how cold it was. They do have heaters up there, but it was an unusually cold and windy evening. I got the Rosemary’s Daughter, and Alex got the Black Cherry Old Fashioned. I gravitate towards gin based cocktails, and Alex gravitates towards bourbon based ones. We were both very happy with our choices. The drinks and the view here are just outstanding. Highly recommend a visit if it’s open!
The Waters Hotel is located at 340 Central Ave., Hot Springs, AR 71901. The Rooftop Bar is only open Thursdays through Saturdays from 5 to 9 PM.
The Heist
Next, we headed to The Heist for drinks before our dinner reservation at Vault. We opted for a later dinner reservation because we weren’t quite sure how long we’d be out exploring during the day. I loved this combo of establishments. First, The Heist is a classy lounge experience and is located on the second floor of a historic bank building that’s been repurposed. This building is now home to Vault, The Heist, and lofts.
The Heist is very chic with several private rooms, dark lighting, crystal chandeliers, blue neon lights, a beautiful bar, and backlit menus. There were about 4 appetizers we could have ordered at The Heist if we wanted to, but we were saving room for our much-anticipated dinner. I loved the names of the specialty cocktails here by the way, so be sure to check those out if you ever find yourself there. I tried the Great Gatsby and the Catch Me If You Can.
Vault
Once it was time for our reservation, we headed downstairs to check in with the hostess at Vault. Alex & I love fine dining, and we do it rather frequently. So, when I say this was one of my favorite meals and dining experiences I’ve ever had, I don’t say it lightly. Our server’s name was Mitchell, and he really made us feel like he was celebrating our engagement with us! We started with a glass of champagne, and then, I got the elderflower martini. The martini was very good - but this one was very strong, so I sipped it slowly throughout dinner.
Onto. The. Food. Alex and I just split everything while we were eating here. First of all, their bread rolls are exceptional. They have truffled honey butter and Himalayan pink sea salt on them, and I swear I dream about them often. After the rolls came out, we ordered a half dozen of the Oysters Vault. They were served bienville-style minus breadcrumbs because they are gluten free. If you’re debating on anything to get here, get the Oysters Vault. YUM. They were hot, cooked to perfection, and essentially melted in my mouth. For our main course, we split the Colorado Lamb Sirloin with oyster mushrooms and whipped potatoes - all of which, you guessed it, was absolutely delectable.
If you’re unsure of what to order for dessert, or unsure of whether you want dessert at all, order the Bread Pudding. The night we were there, it consisted of yeast rolls served with a caramel bulleit bourbon sauce that was to die for.
The lounge & restaurant combo is hands down a great date night choice. The lounge also had live music setting up for the night while we were there, so we did think about heading back up there after dinner but ultimately decided against it.
The Heist and Vault are located at 723 Central Avenue, Hot Springs, Arkansas 71901. The Heist is open from 6 PM - Close on Fridays and Saturdays. Vault is open for dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, and you can make a reservation on OpenTable.
After dinner, we decided to pick up a bottle of wine, head back to our AirBNB, and get in the hot tub to celebrate just the two of us. I couldn’t have picked a more perfect way to celebrate had I known in advance. I was on Cloud 9, and I’m still not sure I’ve come back down to earth.
DAY THREE
We left to head back to Memphis on Sunday morning but not before I got my coffee and we stopped in another shop or two. The Blackberry Vanilla Latte from Argentinian Coffee + Wine Bar is so yummy, and the two shops I liked the most were Wrapped Gift Boutique and Bathhouse Soapery + Caladium. You’ll find souvenirs for yourselves or gifts for loved ones in either store. I hear Bathhouse Soapery has a haunting history if you’re into that kind of thing.
Argentinian Coffee & Wine Bar
Argentinian Coffee & Wine Bar is located at 328 Central Ave, Hot Springs National Park, AR 71901 and is closed on Mondays and Thursdays.
Bathhouse Soapery & Caldarium
Bathhouse Soapery is located at 366 Central Ave, Hot Springs, AR 71901.
Note: Most of the blogs I read about Hot Springs recommended doing the trolley tour right when you arrive in Hot Springs, but time got away from us because we packed so much into our weekend. From what I read, the trolley tour takes approximately an hour and 20 minutes, tickets are $19/person, and tickets can be purchased at Hot Springs Trolleys Gift Shop (706 Central Ave., Hot Springs, AR 71901). Hours to the gift shop are: 9 AM - 4 PM Tuesday through Saturday & 10 AM to 3 PM on Sunday - closed on Mondays. Tour times are Tuesday-Saturday: 10, 12, 2, & 4; Sunday: 11, 1, & 3.
Three places to check out that we just didn’t make it to are: The Pancake Shop, Grateful Head Pizza Oven & Beer Garden, and The Ohio Club.
Thanks for taking me on a mini tour of Hot Springs - I think checking out that bathhouse is now a bucket list item of mine. So happy for you and Alex!